Цэцэрлэг, Архангай (Tsetserleg, Arhangai)

21 07 2011

Finally, I made my first official visit to Tsetserleg, Arhangai. It is located about 465 kms west of Ulaanbaatar. That is roughly 290 miles, which I would have easily cut in less than 5 hours with my sold Honda Accord back in the States. But most of the roads stretched out from the “state city” Ulaanbaatar contain unpaved roads, not to mention that the express buses are somewhat creaky. So the trip came out to be a nine-hour drive.

Ulaanbaatar to Tsetserleg, Arhangai.

The rest area had none that I craved. Most of the lamb meat in Mongolia tastes awful (for my appetite) as the blood is rarely drawn out from the meat before marinading. So I just bought some snacks for lunch. By the way, there is no bathroom available, and water is scarce, especially in isolated areas. Passengers had to pee anywhere on grass. 

At last, we arrived in Tsetserleg, Arhangai! So much for the excitement, it was baffling to consider this a city. Tsetserleg was more like a village somewhat resembling the countryside of South Korea. Yet, Arhangai’s capital had its own character to it.

Map of Tsetserleg, Arhangai

Tsetserleg is referred to as the city of education by the locals. The population is roughly 18,000. From one end to another end (excluding the гэр zone on both sides of the map) takes about 15-20 minutes on foot.


1. Random Buildings

Petite restaurant |  World Vision Office
Pub | Ruined building. The graffiti reads “Our love is forever”


2. Places I may visit frequently

Internet cafe | The only restaurant in town that serves chicken dishes
Central post office | State government and central square


3.  Vestiges of Life

Main road with a teachers’ school and a theater (not for movies) | Clothing store
Oxen | Photo studio


4.  Around my school
Humuun 1st Complex School | Ethnographical Museum
In front of school | View of гэр zone from school


5. Bulgan Mountain
This is perhaps the most appealing scene in Tsetserleg.

Terrific landscape only to be witnessed in Tsetserleg?

So I have to live here for two years starting this August. It felt like a time machine ride to the 70s, the period I didn’t even exist. I have been a city dweller all my life and to endure in a seemingly tedious and remote village will be a challenge. Yet, I ought to be passionate for my job and just love Mongolian people, people around me, my students and fellow teachers. That’s perhaps all I need to do. Those are wise words from my sister in South Carolina.


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