Цэцэрлэг, Архангай (Tsetserleg, Arhangai)

21 07 2011

Finally, I made my first official visit to Tsetserleg, Arhangai. It is located about 465 kms west of Ulaanbaatar. That is roughly 290 miles, which I would have easily cut in less than 5 hours with my sold Honda Accord back in the States. But most of the roads stretched out from the “state city” Ulaanbaatar contain unpaved roads, not to mention that the express buses are somewhat creaky. So the trip came out to be a nine-hour drive.

Ulaanbaatar to Tsetserleg, Arhangai.

The rest area had none that I craved. Most of the lamb meat in Mongolia tastes awful (for my appetite) as the blood is rarely drawn out from the meat before marinading. So I just bought some snacks for lunch. By the way, there is no bathroom available, and water is scarce, especially in isolated areas. Passengers had to pee anywhere on grass. 

At last, we arrived in Tsetserleg, Arhangai! So much for the excitement, it was baffling to consider this a city. Tsetserleg was more like a village somewhat resembling the countryside of South Korea. Yet, Arhangai’s capital had its own character to it.

Map of Tsetserleg, Arhangai

Tsetserleg is referred to as the city of education by the locals. The population is roughly 18,000. From one end to another end (excluding the гэр zone on both sides of the map) takes about 15-20 minutes on foot.


1. Random Buildings

Petite restaurant |  World Vision Office
Pub | Ruined building. The graffiti reads “Our love is forever”


2. Places I may visit frequently

Internet cafe | The only restaurant in town that serves chicken dishes
Central post office | State government and central square


3.  Vestiges of Life

Main road with a teachers’ school and a theater (not for movies) | Clothing store
Oxen | Photo studio


4.  Around my school
Humuun 1st Complex School | Ethnographical Museum
In front of school | View of гэр zone from school


5. Bulgan Mountain
This is perhaps the most appealing scene in Tsetserleg.

Terrific landscape only to be witnessed in Tsetserleg?

So I have to live here for two years starting this August. It felt like a time machine ride to the 70s, the period I didn’t even exist. I have been a city dweller all my life and to endure in a seemingly tedious and remote village will be a challenge. Yet, I ought to be passionate for my job and just love Mongolian people, people around me, my students and fellow teachers. That’s perhaps all I need to do. Those are wise words from my sister in South Carolina.





Mongolia’s Capital at a Glance

9 07 2011

Last Saturday, we, the current KOICA trainees, visited Zaisan Monument. It’s named “Зайсан” in Mongolian. Located at the southern part of Ulan Bator, Zaisan provides perhaps the best panorama of Mongolia’s capital.

(The stairway to Zaisan Monument)

(Looking down at the city from Zaisan)

Nearby the monument, the buildings are mostly new and luxurious. I hear that some apartment lends at $5,000 per month.

As you can tell from the second picture, the city looks very livable, even beautiful to say the least, and the scene does not reflect the harsh reality of a developing country. This is somewhat true of Ulan Bator, but the majority of the city contains high air pollution, minor crimes, and fraudulent activities.

Ulan Bator is almost considered a city state due to extreme contrasts to other cities in Mongolia. I will be relocated to a place 8 hours apart from the capital. The real Mongolia awaits, as some would claim.





Tour the Ulaanbaatar – Part 2

18 06 2011

With the current volunteers on summer vacation, we ran into Face of Mongolia Model Contest held at Ulaanbaatar Palace. Somewhat a rare event, perhaps held at most once a year, I felt very fortunate to be part of the audience.

To my surprise, the contest was quite eye-pleasing. Some of the female models were sizzling hot, with almost faultless bodies.

What an extraordinary experience to have within 48 hrs of arrival in Mongolia.

Lingeries! o_O!!! Kept me wide awake.

TKD performance near the end of the show. Two KOICA members led the crew.

By the time we exited Ulaanbaatar Palace, the weather cooled down. It was almost too nice outside to head home. So we stopped by a bar (I suppose the bar is called Tiger?) to finish off the exciting day with some chilled beer.

Yes, we broke the curfew.





Tour the Ulaanbaatar

18 06 2011

Saturday, June 18, 2011. Day 3. Sunny as hell.

The current volunteers on duty opened a small welcoming party at the youth hostel designated to KOV (not sure whether it’s officially called youth hostel, but we call it “You-Sook-So” among Koreans). Then, a group was elected to tour me around. I basically had four guides to myself!

We crossed by a popular movie theater, then we arrived at the Sukhbaatar Square, located at the center of Ulan Bator. Three things I remember about this place: Zegna, LV, and the main government building with Genghis Khan statue.

I didn’t get a chance to watch the great Johnny Depp movie in Korea so maybe I’ll make it happen in Ulan Bator!

It is quite random to see the existence of such luxury brands. I hear that LV is on deficit here.

This government building has a huge Genghis Khan statue sitting in the middle as you can see.

The buildings in Ulan Bator do not feature much consistency in architecture.